Time for the monthly KOSC hike! This time I had two people attending and Brian came as well. We started around 3pm and had a really pleasant hike. This one had it all… we saw a ton of Humpback whales, a Hawaiian Monk Seal, Hawaiian Albatross (Mōlī), huge wave swells (15+ ft), two sea arches, blow holes, restrooms, parking, and we timed it perfectly for sunset! It’s the sister hike to Ka’ena from the north side; both end at Ka’ena point but follow different sides of the coast. Very similar feeling to hiking the New England coast.
Can you spot the seal?
There was one very slightly sketchy part, but that’s it. It was straightforward, easy to navigate and walk. It is not shaded at all, but honestly if you go prepared (water, sun shirts, sun screen, sunglasses, hat) it’s not bad at all. It’s not like sweltering… it’s really hard to explain. You’ll have to come see for yourself!
You can still see rail ties from the train tracks that existed for the Ka’ena point train until a tsunami took them out.
It was great to get out and get some fresh air and experience nature in Hawaii. I had been sick with a head cold and stomach issues last week, so I had been a couch potato for a while. Brian really enjoyed seeing this trail, he really loved it actually.
Brian and I decided to take an easy beach day on Sunday, so I messaged Pat and Jeanie to see if they were around to hang out (I like to be social and Brian will just fall asleep on me). They were, so we set up camp with them and Pat took us out sailing. Compared to when Jess and I went, the seas were a bit rougher because there was higher winds. This should mean faster travel… except… ended up hitting reef quite a bit because we were heavier and the tide was low. We tacked a bunch of times trying to get out there.
We also brought along Kike, a neurosurgeon. He was playing backseat driver quite a bit which made for an entertaining ride. Regardless we made it to the Mokes! And made our way back to Queen’s baths. We borrowed water booties for our feet to get back there and it was definitely rough walking. Highly recommend stiffer soles, but we made it work. Brian’s essentially fell completely apart by the end.
This following picture is the only picture I have of us from being actually at the Queen’s baths…
Because the wave swells were so high they knocked us from the littler bath into the big bath (you can see a better picture of what I’m talking about with Jess and I actually in the baths in my other post. The smaller bath is to the right in the picture of me and Jess in the bigger one) . The waves came right over the rock wall and hit us really hard! I knocked into the rock wall behind me after the first and then got out because I wasn’t going to tempt fate twice. Well, Brian and Pat stayed in for a second wave and they both got pushed back into the big pool. Brian lost his glasses temporarily, thankfully Kike dove and found them… and Brian is pretty banged up on his legs and one shoulder (pictured). I have some road rash on the back of my leg.
Anyway, lesson learned that you’re only one bad decision away from being one of those “stupid tourists” and that you can’t mess with mother nature! I’d like to go back, ideally, when things are calmer and sit and enjoy the spot for a bit… interestingly, after those two huge waves we didn’t see many big ones while we were looking for the glasses. I wasn’t interested in finding out if it was a “one off”.
Our adventure wasn’t over yet. We walked around the other side down a short path just to check it out.
Nothing too exciting. We decide it’s time to head back to shore. Before we do, Pat’s firefighter instinct decides to pick up two girls (no older than 13 yo) who decided to swim out to the mokes and looked like there was no way they were getting back. They were sprawled out on the beach. The whole way home, they talked about how strong of swimmers they are… Brian and I talked about how even at our fittest we wouldn’t attempt that swim. Anyway, here are the four adults on our way back (the two girls are in front)
We had quite the adventure, more than we bargained for, but that’s life sometimes.
I’ve been wanting to knock out this hike but haven’t been procrastinating because on AllTrails it’s only a half mile loop… in fact when I proposed it to Jess I said maybe we can do a couple loops of it.
Well, turns out this is another sleeper hike and there’s a whole extension to it with a pretty great climb! There also isn’t a lot of parking, but we found a couple spots. This is the entrance, and some of the plants have identification plaque along the way.
After about 200 ft of climbing (you drive up a pretty big hill to get there) there’s a really great view and a bench to sit (this is looking out toward MCBH).
This is looking out toward Kailua and my beloved Mokes, plus Waimanalo to the right.
Then, the path continues up and up… like scrambling up… (this next section pictured had ropes to help) and you get pretty much the same views but also a view back toward the H3. It actually wasn’t that bad of a section, it was pretty grippy, but I wouldn’t do it after much rain and sat on my butt a couple spots to get down.
You can barely see the H3 coming around the bend. I’d like to revisit in the morning when the sun is on those mountains, but this shot with the rays is pretty neat. Needless to say, it took about an hour with stoppage to enjoy, and we didn’t even go all the way (we stopped at the top, but it looks like it goes down the other side and dead ends). I think it was 500ft elevation all things considered. Not bad for a Friday afternoon jaunt.
God truly sent me an angel when I connected with Jess at her first book club with our officer spouse group. And by connected, I basically messaged her and said please be my friend. At the time, she had recently moved and her husband was here, but Brian was gone. I met her husband once, then he left, and we were both flying solo together. In fact, so much together, that someone reading my blog recently thought we were married. Ha. Anyway, Brian came home, but with his schedule we still hang out a lot, and now finally her husband came home!
Their ships are huge and they have so much more personnel. This was my first real homecoming experience, ours wasn’t “official” because it wasn’t an official deployment. But, there was a lot of similarities… going to Missing Man to watch them pull in. Shedding some tears (I think I did more than she did!). Heading to the docks to wait for unloading. I took the day off so I could photograph.
They had a live band playing, a lot of press, the first kisses… Her husband is up on that deck.
I was happy to be there to grab pictures of them reuniting! Ahh here I am crying again.
When you go through such a long time with someone while their husband is gone it just makes you so emotional when you get to see them so happy to have their husband back… it’s such an incredible experience and so unique to military life. I took the day off to go spend capturing the moments for them as best I could. I almost tripped over a sailor’s bag trying to photograph… it’s a crazy day and stuff and people are strewn all over! Thankfully I didn’t faceplant.
Jess was so kind as to help another officer find an apartment while he was gone. I don’t know how single sailors manage their lives, honestly.
Fun fact, it was really hard for her to figure out who her husband was on the boat. They all look so similar!! And to top it off they’re in masks! But we eventually figured it out.
I want to start off by saying normally I’m scrambling to blog on Sundays but I am super proud of myself for blogging on Saturday!
This bay probably looks familiar, it’s Haunama Bay (The one Erin and I snorkeled a while back). There’s actually a hike that goes up and around the rim of it and down toward the right of this picture. It’s unlisted on the AllTrails app, which I find very curious, but most of it is technically on an access road that’s supposed to be off limits. We encountered a lot of other people enjoying the route and no one there to stop us so… on we went! In the next picture, you can see us walking on the access road and behind us is a great view of Koko crater and the neighborhood of Hawaii Kai. I will tell you we vastly underestimated this hike, this was the first of two steep ascents. Luckily it was cooler and we had some wind, but I did have to stop for more reasons than to take a picture or three.
Eventually we reached the “top”. You could keep going, but I think it ends up going to an out and back point, and we didn’t have a lot of time so we turned back to do a loop. Well, the next thing we know we’re walking down this near vertical pitch. Thankfully the rock was dry and super grippy aside from some loose gravel here and there. My knees were definitely feeling it by the time we finished descending! (this is looking back up from whence we came).
Then you walk along the coast and get to the right side of Haunama bay (looking outward)
What goes down must come up…It isn’t a very long time before you find yourself ascending another practically vertical pitch to get back up to the high ridge again. Here’s a girl descending what we just finished ascending. That brown patch is where we came from and where I took that above picture.
This was a sleeper hike… meaning I way underestimated the intensity. It ended up being 3.75 miles and 900ft elevation total! Idk what I was thinking, my friend sent me her route and stats and I must’ve glossed over them… I think because I thought we were just doing the rim and the loop was on the same elevation, but definitely not the case!
We did see a couple whale spouts while standing out there! I think if I did it again I’d take binoculars and dinner and sit and enjoy for a bit.
I told Brian he might need to find someone else to go with to do this hike, that’s how much I disliked it. But, I can be convinced of a lot… so who knows.
This is a really great shot of Koko Head. You can see a brown path going to the top… those are the Koko head stairs. I’m really nervous to do them because they are intense and really, really hot. My friend said that she’d go with me and we could take our time and just go as far as I’m comfortable. I will definitely try it sometime.
This hike was definitely challenging to navigate. A lot of reviews said that, but based on the map it looked pretty straight… the problem is it crosses the stream a couple (? Few?) times. There weren’t great markers and LOTS of stray paths. Some of the markers were the same colors and plant leaves… which left you questioning leaf or trail marker? There was one point we were hiking up a cliff face and my gut said it didn’t feel right because reviews had said their 8 year olds could handle it. I was right, and we backed down and found an alternative, much easier path.
Anyway, this was another nice walk through the jungle essentially… a really beautiful bamboo forest to start.
Eventually you get to the stream and trace it all the way up. This hike is NOT recommended during rain and I can see why… you can easily get trapped.
I ended up using my spikes toward the top, and I would highly suggest boots… we were crossing the stream a lot.
We made it there around 4pm on a Friday and there was hardly anyone there. We parked at this pull off off the highway… they were doing filming in the area so the parking was limited which could’ve kept it quieter. Also, you need to buy a pass for this hike… it’s limited to 100 a day or something. It was a whopping $2.50 and no one checked us for it, but I rather go with the integrity route.
It was a great hike, it took an hour and 15 minutes ish, 1.7 miles round trip, only 300 ft elevation. There were four other people there and they were swimming… I’ve heard bad things about the bacteria in these ponds, so I haven’t done it yet.
After this we made a stop at the Honolulu Museum of Art to pick up some pallet straps to reuse for this project. Stay tuned!
Finally, we stopped at La Casita restaurant to try to find some good pupusas. The pupusas were just OK, but the horchata was delicious and the empanada was as well. We would like to try their other food. This all started after a discussion about trying to find Arepa’s in Hawaii, which it turns out there aren’t any… so now we are pursuing (and succeeding!) at making them at home. I first tried arepa’s in Venezuela. They are delicious.
Sidebar conversation related to this afternoon… Leading up to this, I was very reluctant to drive. Growing up, my mom was very fearful of driving, and even to this day my parents are very particular about parking and where they drive. So sometimes that creeps up on me… we were going to three spots I had never driven before, one I had to take a left and then another left on a busy throughway, one was in the city… and I was going to ask my friend to drive. But I know, if I keep doing that, I will scare myself into never driving anywhere. Well, long story short, I told my friend this before we left, and she encouraged me to drive, and I did and of course everything went fine… in fact incredibly smoothly. Both lefts, navigating this tiny parking lot, and driving the H1 through Honolulu. It was a great confidence/anti fear builder! Funny anecdote about the tiny parking lot in the art museum- I parked in the museum director’s spot (at 5pm on a Friday, mind you) and the parking attendant got SO UPSET. So I had to move immediately. Meanwhile, this parking lot is 5 spots big and there were 8 cars trying to park in it… We all agreed afterward that he had definitely been chewed out for not leaving that space open previously and couldn’t let it happen again. How about next time pick a bigger parking lot to execute this in? Or get permission? Strange… Hawaii is strange.
There is a crater on the Marine Corps base called Ulupa’u crater. It faces out toward the ocean, and inside is a setup for various training exercises. To use the hike there are a few logistics involved, including getting a key and radio and signing waivers. I tasked my friend Jess to coordinate this because I thought there was a chance I wouldn’t be able to. She did great!
We did it for sunrise. We set off in the dark.
We thought it might be tough to get everyone up in time, but we did! There was a bit of scrambling and a few steep parts. But you can see all of base and over to Lanikai.
There’s the golf course we played with my parents, and pyramid rock beach and North Beach.
We got to take our husbands.
You can kinda tell how steep it is here. There are ropes the whole way.
I would not want to do this when it was slippery! Thankfully we had perfect weather for it and it’s been dry.
It was certainly challenging and Brian and I were the last to get up, but we did! I unfortunately don’t have a selfie of just us, but he was there and I was thankful he went slowly with me. There were a TON of gnats through some of the higher elevation wooded parts… the noise was deafening trying to walk through them. We covered our mouths with shirts and ducked low, it helped…
I don’t know if I’d do this again. We’ll see. I’m glad to have gone at least once!
Backstory- Jess and I have been picking up trash on Lanikai about once a week. One week we encountered a family there who started a conversation with us and has a whole sifter to use to sift out microplastics, so we bonded over the beach cleanup. Anyway, turns out they have a sailboat and have offered to take us out on it. (Also turns out, Pat is a retired firefighter).
The mokes have been sitting there tempting me every morning… so many people will kayak or stand up paddle board out there, but it’s a little far beyond my risk tolerance. Let me tell you… the sailboat method was the best.
The day we went there was little to no wind, and it was the most leisurely, relaxing sail I’ve ever had. It was beautiful to see Lanikai from the ocean, and we were sailing next to turtles. I didn’t know what to expect, so these are only phone photos (I didn’t risk my big camera). I actually wasn’t even sure I was going to go, because I was nervous about the whole thing, but I took a risk and Pat was really kind and assuring.
The waves actually come in around both sides of the island to crash together in front of a beach. It looks a little daunting, but the boat was so stable and we did fine. We did spend a good 5 minutes watching all the kayaking tourists tip over, and I definitively decided I will not take a kayak out there.
Then we hiked around the back side and got to what is called the queens bath. It’s about 6ft deep. We jumped in! And just beyond is a smaller pool. You have to be careful where you put your hands, there are a lot of sea urchins in all the crevices!
Apparently the thing to do is relax and watch the waves break, sometimes they’ll break over the queens bath wall.
We didn’t spend too long here, but we could’ve. We made our way back through the washing machine waves (which ended up pouring down on us because they crashed!)
Jess attempted to learn some of the sailing things but I had no interest so I just sat along for the ride. This couple is very nice. He worked in LA as a firefighter and they are renting a small place out here and property managing for a house right on the beach. It’s great when great people meet great people! Afterward we hung at the beach with more of their friends, who turned out to be Air Force. They really want a tour of a sub… so in turn we get a tour of their… plane? Ha. But they fly the really huge ones. So that’s cool! Brian had to work all day. It seems par for the course… I wish I could go more into details but I can’t. Maybe one day.
Brian booked us tickets to go see the Arizona memorial. You have to reserve them well in advance and they release the tickets at two intervals prior to the date… I don’t know it’s very confusing… but Brian picked this past Saturday at 1pm so we went.
We started by visiting the USS Utah remains. It’s less talked about and on the other side of Ford Island. I’m not even sure many people go there. We have base access so we made a stop before heading to the Missouri. Not much left of it.
Then we headed to the USS Missouri. It was the last served battleship (I didn’t realize that we only have destroyers now. More agile apparently). It was the host of the surrender of the Japanese after WWII.
We think that’s part of why it was picked to be a living memorial… you can see the start and end of WWII from the same place. Pretty unique. (The USS Arizona memorial is just barely peaking out past the poles in the water.)
Supposedly the little green missile pictured below weighed 2,000lbs… I didn’t test it.
A museum ranger asked us where we were from, and we told him Brian was stationed here on a sub. He replied “Ah, well have fun seeing what a real warship looks like”. To which Brian later told me “this is no warship, it’s a cruise ship” (As evidence by the DONUT shop, pictured and his equivalent role’s stateroom which looks like a normal size room)
There was a display of letters the Kamikaze pilots wrote to their families when they knew they were going on their final suicide mission. Those were very, very, very sad.
The USS Oklahoma memorial is right outside the USS Missouri, also a lesser talked about memorial.
This is the view of the USS Arizona memorial from the USS Missouri, but you actually have to go back across the bridge to catch the boat to go to the memorial itself.
You can see parts of the wreckage above water. We did also see oil. One of these things is not like the other…
The boat gives you a half hour there to explore, which I thought was the right amount of time but some people seemingly thought was too much. There’s a movie to watch at an outdoor seating area before you go (used to be indoor, but, COVID). The movie was very good.
There is so much to explore at Pearl Harbor, but Brian narrowed it down to these 4 things for this day. I think we chose wisely, because it was really cool to go explore the USS Missouri and then stand over the equivalent (sunken) warship at the USS Arizona memorial. It was nice to have that perspective before standing over it.
Manoa Falls is a very touristy waterfall hike. It was closed for a bit and redone to try to prevent erosion. It’s really easily accessible, not much of an incline, and beautiful. However, definitely not as breathtaking as one that you’d find buried deep in the jungle like the last one I went to, Waipulani falls. I think the touristy feel takes some of the awe away. None the less, great little adventure to get some fresh air after what felt like weeks of rain.
OK, I take it back, you do feel a bit like you’re walking through the jungle…
But the path is mostly gravel and well kept bridges.
As you get closer you can only see the bottom tier.
In some of the pictures you can see people at the base swimming… you can, but swim at your own risk of infection with whatever diseases… I’ll take a pass. There are signs saying you shouldn’t, and with all the heavy rains I especially wouldn’t.
Parking is $4 for Kama’aina or military. The parking lot is small, but there was an additional one further. This trail connects to a large network of trails in the Tantalus area that I’ve yet to check out. Total was 1.7 miles round trip and 400 ft elevation. I think for a quick hit up of a waterfall without getting too dirty, it’s great. If it were me, I’d choose Likeke or Waipulani or even Waimea before I came to this one.
